For adventure seekers and nature lovers, Thailand’s Mae Hong Son Loop offers an unforgettable journey through some of the country’s most breathtaking landscapes. This 600-kilometer scenic route winds through the heart of Thailand’s most remote province, connecting Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son in a spectacular loop that showcases the region’s stunning natural beauty and cultural diversity.
Two contrasting highways snake their way through this mountainous region, offering travelers a chance to experience dramatically different scenery along their journey. As you navigate the winding roads that cut through steep, forested mountains and picturesque farming valleys, you’ll pass through charming towns that bear influences from neighboring Burma.
But the true magic of this journey lies not just in the destinations along the way, but in the spectacular ride itself. The dramatic mountain scenery, with its hairpin turns and panoramic viewpoints, creates memories that will stay with you long after your trip ends.
Key Stops Along the Mae Hong Son Loop
Nakhon Phanom
Ubon Ratchathani
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The Kayan Lahwi women of Thailand, often called “long-neck” women, are known for their striking brass neck rings—a tradition that has both fascinated and horrified outsiders for years. These women start wearing the rings as young as six years old, gradually adding more until their mid-teens. But contrary to popular belief, the illusion of an elongated neck comes at a cost: the weight of the brass actually compresses the collarbones and ribs rather than stretching the neck.
Once the rings are in place, they’re rarely removed. Taking them off could collapse the neck, making removal a dangerous and sometimes fatal consequence—especially in the past, where it was used as punishment for adultery. The origins of this ancient practice remain shrouded in mystery. Some believe it stems from a tribal legend of a dragon mother with an elegant, elongated neck, while others claim it was a means of protection—whether from tiger attacks or forced recruitment by Burmese royalty seeking concubines. In Myanmar, the practice has since been banned as inhumane, yet in Thailand, the tradition persists, largely fueled by tourism.
Despite their physical limitations—they must use straws to drink, for example—these women adapt, marrying, raising children, and even weaving and sewing. Today, however, their primary role has shifted to posing for photographs, turning what was once a cultural symbol into a tourist spectacle. While only half of Kayan Lahwi women now participate in the tradition, the influx of tourist dollars ensures that the custom lingers, even if artificially.
Villages in Mae Hong Son, Chiang Mai, and Chiang Rai provinces, essentially constructed as commercial ventures, charge visitors for entry. Though reports sometimes dramatize their situation, the women do receive a modest monthly income. Yet, as refugees, their future remains uncertain. The UN has offered resettlement options, but Thai authorities—keen on preserving this lucrative tourist attraction—have stalled the necessary paperwork.
Adventure from Cave Lodge
For those seeking more ethical travel experiences, Cave Lodge offers an exciting alternative. The lodge arranges guided cave explorations, kayaking through Tham Lot’s rapids (seasonal), and multi-day treks to nearby ethnic villages. Beyond adventure, visitors can immerse themselves in local culture through weaving workshops, cooking classes, and bird-watching. Self-guided walking maps are also available, making it easy to explore without supporting exploitative practices.
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