Gerasa’s Roman Heyday
During the reign of Marcus Aurelius (161–180 CE), Gerasa (modern-day Jerash) flourished as a prominent Roman city. The urban fabric expanded with the construction of a magnificent temple to Zeus, erected over an earlier shrine and fronted by an elegant oval plaza. Alongside this, workers upgraded the Temple of Artemis and erected the impressive South Theatre that still commands attention today.
From Autonomy to Provincial Integration
Gerasa’s independence shifted in 106 CE when Emperor Trajan incorporated it into the newly formed Province of Arabia, governed from Bosra. This administrative change positioned the city advantageously along major trade routes connecting Bosra to the Red Sea, Philadelphia (Amman), and Pella. Gerasa transformed into a bustling commercial hub.
The city reached its zenith when Emperor Hadrian wintered here in 129–130 CE. To honor their imperial visitor, locals constructed a triumphal arch and launched ambitious civic improvements: widening main streets, renovating temples, and upgrading public spaces. Archaeological evidence suggests Gerasa’s population may have approached 25,000 during this golden age—a remarkable size for its time.
Challenges and Transformation
The late second century brought instability. Mounting taxes, rampant inflation, and pressure from Persian Sassanians strained Gerasa’s prosperity. Monumental construction ceased as resources dwindled.
A profound cultural shift occurred when Christianity became the Eastern Empire’s official religion in 324. Gerasenes rapidly embraced the new faith, converting temples into churches. The fifth and sixth centuries saw dozens of Christian sanctuaries rise, though many reused materials from older structures, resulting in architecturally eclectic buildings.
By the seventh century, chronic maintenance neglect left the city vulnerable. Persian forces occupied Gerasa from 614 following decades of deterioration.
Islamic Era and Rediscovery
After Islamic forces defeated the Byzantines at Yarmouk in 636, Gerasa evolved into Arabic-speaking Jerash. Contrary to earlier beliefs of swift decline, recent excavations revealed a substantial eighth-century Umayyad complex containing a congregational mosque and possible governor’s residence. Jerash apparently thrived until the devastating 749 earthquake reduced the city to rubble for nearly a millennium.
Modern Resurrection
The nineteenth century saw European explorers “rediscover” Jerash’s ruins. Johann Ludwig Burckhardt famously documented the site in 1812. Serious archaeological work continues to this day, with many areas still awaiting excavation beneath the soil.
Jerash gained new life in 1879 when Ottoman authorities settled Circassian refugees in the ancient city’s eastern residential quarter. Their descendants form a significant community in modern Jerash, now the thriving capital of its own governorate.
Journey to Jerash
Travelers typically reach Jerash via Amman’s northwestern Sweileh intersection. The scenic highway descends past Baqaa refugee camp (now a permanent city) before crossing the Zarqa River. Take the “South Jerash” turn for a breathtaking 6km drive through olive groves and eucalyptus-lined valleys.
Modern Jerash (population ~45,000) feels like a quintessential Jordanian agricultural town, economically challenged but welcoming. While it offers few tourist services, its proximity to major cities makes it ideal for day trips. Don’t miss local olive products—the region’s liquid gold.
Thunder of Chariots Returns
Jerash now revives its ancient Roman spirit through spectacular hippodrome reenactments. The Roman Army and Chariots Experience (RACE) project meticulously recreates historical contests in the restored arena:
- Authentic two-horse chariots—lighter than Hollywood versions but historically accurate
- Seven-lap races mirroring ancient rules
- Trumpet fanfares, gladiatorial demonstrations, and legionary drills
Behind the scenes, artisans create period-accurate equipment while 70+ Jerash locals—many military veterans—perform as riders, soldiers, and crew. This cultural initiative blends entertainment with economic opportunity, making ticket purchases a meaningful way to support community development.
Pro Tip: Time your visit for morning shows to avoid afternoon heat and capture perfect photographic light on the ancient stones.
