Discovering Turkey’s Hidden Gems: Kütahya and Eskişehir

While Turkey’s popular destinations like Istanbul and Cappadocia rightfully claim their fame, two unassuming cities west of Ankara offer an authentic Turkish experience few tourists ever discover. Kütahya and Eskişehir might not grace most travel brochures, but they captivate curious visitors with unique cultural treasures, vibrant street life, and unexpected artistic surprises. Let’s journey beyond the well-trodden path to uncover these Central Anatolian treasures where history, craftsmanship, and youthful energy create an unforgettable Turkish experience.

The Ceramic Canvas: Exploring Kütahya

At first glance, Kütahya appears like any ordinary Turkish provincial city. But look closer – the cityscape reveals itself as a living museum of ceramic artistry. This working-class city halfway between İzmir and Ankara dazzles visitors with buildings draped in exquisite glazed tiles, from the old otogar (bus station) to ordinary shopfronts. Even the central Belediye Meydanı surprises with a monumental ceramic fountain featuring a vase large enough to hold a small tree.

Tiles That Tell Stories

Kütahya’s connection with ceramics dates back to the 16th century when Sultan Selim I relocated Persian tile masters here after the Battle of Çaldıran. These artisans sparked a golden age of tile production that continues today. While modern tiles might appear bolder than their Ottoman ancestors (whose subtle pigment blends have been lost to time), the city remains Turkey’s tile production capital. Wander through the historic quarter near Cumhuriyet Bulvarı, and you’ll discover tile workshops where artisans maintain centuries-old techniques. The rotating dervish sculpture near the main roundabout hints at both the city’s spiritual heritage and its creative spirit – a delightful detail you won’t find elsewhere in Turkey.

Kütahya’s Architectural Treasures

Beyond its famous ceramics, Kütahya rewards visitors with architectural gems. The imposing fortress looming above the city offers panoramic views and whispers tales of medieval conflicts. As you explore, notice the charming Ottoman houses near the main square – their wooden balconies and carved details transport you centuries back in time. Don’t miss the surprising collection of small museums housed in beautiful historic buildings. The Archaeological Museum showcases regional finds while the Tile Museum celebrates the city’s signature craft in a beautifully tiled former theological school.

Battlegrounds and Bargains

Modern Kütahya played a crucial role in Turkey’s War of Independence. Nearby İnönü witnessed key battles against Greek forces in 1921, and the decisive offensive that ended the Greek occupation began at Dumlupınar between Kütahya and Afyon. Today, this history is honored at memorial sites surrounding the city.

The commercial heart of Kütahya pulses with exceptional shopping opportunities. Ceramic shops lining every street display colorful dinner services, ornamental tiles, and stunning vases – along with more practical ceramic items like Turkey’s most popular toilets. Prices remain refreshingly reasonable thanks to minimal tourist traffic. As evening falls, join locals at the value-for-money restaurants around Belediye Meydanı or explore Atatürk Bulvarı’s bars where you’ll find Kütahya’s working-class residents enjoying affordable drinks.

The Student City: Vibrant Eskişehir

About 80km northeast of Kütahya, Eskişehir presents a completely different personality. Home to several universities, this dynamic city brims with youthful energy. Students pedal bicycles along the Porsuk River canals, filling cafés that spill onto waterfront terraces. Unlike many Turkish cities, Eskişehir surprises visitors with its pastel-hued Ottoman buildings – soft greens, pinks, and blues creating an unexpectedly cheerful streetscape.

A Taste of Student Life

The Porsuk River canals form Eskişehir’s lively social hub. Lined with coffee shops and casual eateries catering to student budgets, the waterfront comes alive both day and night. Try çi börek, the city’s beloved Crimean Tatar specialty – half-moon shaped fried dumplings filled with savory minced meat and onions, traditionally served in portions of five. This local delicacy reflects the city’s diverse cultural roots. Nightlife enthusiasts should note Eskişehir’s conservative streak: despite thousands of university students, alcohol-serving establishments are limited. Instead, the city offers alternative evening pleasures – bookstores stay open late, musicians perform in parks, and traditional coffee houses brim with intellectual conversation.

The White Gold of Eskişehir

Beyond its student buzz, Eskişehir holds a surprising artistic treasure: meerschaum. This milky-white mineral, carved into intricate pipes and sculptures when wet, has earned international fame for its smoke-cooling properties. Meerschaum workshops along İnönü Caddesi demonstrate this unique craft, with artisans transforming blocks of raw mineral into delicate works of art. Bargain hunters can find exquisite hand-carved pipes at prices far below what they’d command overseas.

Timeless Legends: The Gordian Knot and Midas Touch

Between these two cities lies one of Turkey’s most fascinating archaeological sites steeped in world-changing legends. The ancient Phrygian capital of Gordion connects us to stories that still shape our language today.

The Golden King

According to legend, King Midas of Gordion received a blessing (or curse) from Dionysus: everything he touched would turn to gold. While initially delighted, Midas soon realized his “golden touch” brought isolation – even food and loved ones transformed to metal. The desperate king washed his hands in the Pactolus River to rid himself of the power, which thereafter flowed with golden sands. Modern visitors can explore the immense royal burial mound believed to hold Midas’ remains near Gordion’s ruins.

The World’s Most Famous Knot

Another enduring legend began when a peasant named Midas arrived in Gordion by ox-cart, fulfilling a prophecy that such a man would rule. His cart became enshrined in the Temple of Cybele, fastened with an impossibly complex knot. Centuries later, Alexander the Great attempted to unravel this Gordian Knot – rather than untie it, he slashed through it with his sword. This decisive action created the phrase “cutting the Gordian knot,” still used today to describe brilliant problem-solving. Visitors to Gordion’s archaeological site can explore the ancient city where these world-changing myths began.

Practical Travel Tips

Getting There

Both cities are easily accessible from Ankara by comfortable bus rides (2 hours to Eskişehir, 3 hours to Kütahya). Consider renting a car to explore surrounding attractions like Aezani’s Roman ruins near Kütahya or Gordion’s archaeological park between the two cities.

Pacing Your Visit

While you could visit both cities as day trips from Ankara, spending at least one night in each reveals their true character. Kütahya’s Ottoman-era guesthouses and Eskişehir’s boutique hotels along the Porsuk River offer atmospheric stays. Spring and autumn provide comfortable temperatures, while winter brings fewer crowds and dramatic snowy landscapes.

Cultural Notes

Eskişehir’s student population makes it more cosmopolitan, while Kütahya maintains traditional values. Dress modestly when visiting religious sites and museums. Though English isn’t widely spoken outside tourist areas, locals appreciate attempts at basic Turkish phrases.

Why Visit These Hidden Cities?

Kütahya and Eskişehir offer something increasingly rare in global travel: authenticity. Here you’ll witness turkey’s artistic traditions continuing uninterrupted, not adapted for tourist consumption. Kütahya’s tile artisans supply restoration projects across the nation, maintaining skills that preserve Turkey’s architectural heritage. Eskişehir’s student energy creates an atmosphere of optimism and creativity, while the enduring myths of Gordion connect us to stories that continue to shape Western thought.

These cities reward travelers willing to venture beyond standard itineraries with unexpected discoveries. In Kütahya, a humble ceramics workshop might produce museum-worthy tiles. In Eskişehir, a chance conversation in a canal-side café might lead to philosophical discussions with future leaders of Turkey. The region’s layered history reminds us that modern Turkey connects directly to ancient Anatolian civilizations through language, cuisine, and living traditions.

As you plan your Turkish adventure, consider adding these underrated cities to your journey. The absence of tourist crowds means more opportunities for genuine local encounters and unhurried appreciation of Turkey’s cultural riches. Whether you’re tasting çi börek in a student café, watching a meerschaum pipe take shape, or standing where Alexander changed history, western Central Anatolia offers travel experiences that stay with you long after the journey ends.