East of Turkey’s bustling capital Ankara lies an unsung paradise where history breathes through ancient stones and culinary secrets wait around every corner. This captivating stretch of Anatolia holds treasures often overlooked by mainstream tourism – and that’s precisely what makes discovering these hidden gems so rewarding. From the echoing footsteps in Hittite ruins to the aroma of sizzling kebabs in Tokat, we’re about to embark on a journey through Turkey’s less-traveled heartland.
The Hittite Legacy: Where Ancient Whispers Meet Modern Exploration
Our adventure truly begins in the lands of the mighty Hittite kingdom, whose civilization flourished here over three millennia ago. The archaeological site of Hattuşa serves as an open-air museum of empire, its massive stone gates and hieroglyph-lined chambers transporting visitors back to an era when this was the capital of an Anatolian superpower. Don’t miss the Lion Gate, where weathered stone felines still guard the city entrance, or the mesmerizing green stone whose origins baffle historians to this day.
What makes these ruins particularly special is their untouched atmosphere. Unlike more famous archaeological sites where camera-wielding crowds dominate the landscape, here you’ll often find yourself alone with history. The rolling green hills surrounding the ruins create a bucolic setting that enhances the sense of discovery – bring sturdy shoes for exploring uneven terrain and prepare to let your imagination reconstruct golden-roofed palaces where only foundations now remain.
Amasya: Where River Magic Meets Living History
The Enchanting Yeşilırmak Valley
Follow the winding roads northwest to discover Amasya, cradled in the narrow embrace of the Yeşilırmak River valley. This picturesque town seems plucked from a storybook, with Ottoman-era wooden houses lining the riverbanks like colorful sentries watching over the gentle current. After sunset, when traditional lamps illuminate the facades and reflect in the water’s surface, you’ll understand why locals call this “the city of moonlight”.
Walking Through Layers of Civilization
Amasya’s charm lies in its remarkable preservation of multiple historical periods. At street level, you wander through living Ottoman history – restored konaks (traditional mansions) now house charming teahouses serving apple tea grown in local orchards. Look upward to the cliffs towering above town, and you’ll spot the haunting rock tombs of Pontic kings, their massive facades carved directly into limestone some twenty-three centuries ago.
The town’s strategic location on historic trade routes made it a coveted prize for numerous empires. From being the royal seat of the Pontic Kingdom to serving as the Ottoman Empire’s training ground for future sultans, Amasya accumulated architectural treasures at every turn. Selçuk mosques with elegant brick minarets stand shoulder-to-shoulder with Byzantine foundations, while Roman bridges still carry modern traffic across the river.
Hamam Rituals: Steaming Through Centuries
For authentic local immersion, join Amasyalılar in their beloved thermal traditions at one of the town’s historic bathhouses. The Sıhhı Mustafa Bey Hamamı, continuously operating since the 13th century, offers more than just cleansing – it’s a cultural experience where the massage techniques have been perfected over generations. Alternatively, the Yıldız Hamamı charms visitors with its slightly eccentric English signage and time-worn marble basins that have soothed weary travelers since Ottoman days.
As you unwind in the warm glow of these ancient vaulted chambers, consider this: Mehmed the Conqueror likely relaxed in these same steam rooms before embarking on campaigns that would change world history.
Rock Tombs of the Pontic Kings: Echoes of an Ancient Kingdom
The dramatic rock tombs carved high into Amasya’s cliffs form one of Anatolia’s most surreal landscapes. These monumental facades, originally created as eternal resting places for Pontic royalty around 300 BCE, now offer visitors panoramic views across the valley. Each tomb features a distinctive entrance design – some with ornate columned porticos, others with simple arched openings that create natural frames for photographing the picturesque town below.
Reaching the tombs requires a moderately steep climb, but local entrepreneurs have made the ascent enjoyable with strategically placed çay bahçesis (tea gardens) where you can catch your breath while sipping Turkish tea. For photography enthusiasts, the golden hour before sunset bathes both the tombs and Amasya’s Ottoman houses in warm light, creating perfect conditions for capturing memorable shots.
Tokat: Turkey’s Undiscovered Culinary Capital
After working up an appetite exploring historical sites, food lovers will find paradise in Tokat. This unassuming town hides extraordinary gastronomic secrets behind its modest exterior. Local chefs guard recipes passed down through generations, creating dishes you won’t find elsewhere in Turkey – from the famed Tokat kebab (a succulent layered masterpiece of lamb, eggplant, potatoes and tomatoes) to cevizli çörek, a walnut-stuffed pastry that pairs perfectly with thick Turkish coffee.
The town’s Ottoman-era covered bazaar rewards explorers with fragrant spice stalls and family-run lokantas serving home-style cooking. Make sure to try madımak, a wild herb unique to the region that locals simmer with garlic and bulgur for a dish that tastes like Anatolian terroir in edible form.
Sivas: Where Selçuk Splendor Meets Revolutionary History
Journeying further east brings us to Sivas, a city where architectural grandeur meets pivotal moments in Turkish history. The 13th-century Double Minaret Madrasa showcases the zenith of Selçuk stone carving, its imposing portal decorated with geometric patterns that seem to shift in the Anatolian sunlight. Nearby, the Congress Building commemorates where Mustafa Kemal Atatürk laid crucial plans for Turkey’s War of Independence in 1919.
Wander through Sivas’ atmospheric old quarter to discover hidden gems – artisan workshops where copper masters still shape intricate cezves (Turkish coffee pots) using techniques unchanged for centuries, and traditional cumbalı evleri (bay-windowed houses) now converted into boutique hotels preserving Ottoman architectural details like hand-painted ceilings.
Divriği: A Remote Wonder of Islamic Architecture
The Hidden Masterpiece in the Mountains
Our final treasure lies in the rugged hills southeast of Sivas – the remote town of Divriği, home to one of UNESCO’s most dazzling World Heritage Sites. The Ulu Cami (Great Mosque) and attached Darüşşifa (hospital) complex represent one of Islamic architecture’s most imaginative creations. Built in 1229 under the Mengücek dynasty, these structures astonish visitors with stone carved so intricately it resembles lace more than rock.
What makes these buildings extraordinary is their sheer architectural audacity. The immense northern portal of the mosque displays over 200 unique decorative motifs – not a single pattern repeats. Craftsmen blended Anatolian, Persian and Armenian influences to create a style entirely unique to Divriği. As sunlight moves across the facade throughout the day, new details emerge from the stone tapestry – celestial patterns, abstract geometry, even floral motifs seemingly inspired by local wildflowers.
Exploring Off-the-Map Anatolia
Reaching Divriği feels like an adventure in itself. The journey winds through stunning highland scenery where nomadic Yörük families still pasture flocks in summer. The town’s relatively isolated position has preserved traditions largely unchanged for centuries – you might witness women baking tandır bread in underground ovens or farmers harvesting ancient varieties of wheat using traditional methods.
Spend the night in one of Divriği’s restored Ottoman houses converted into simple but atmospheric guesthouses. As evening falls and the minarets cast long shadows over the cobbled lanes, you’ll understand why adventurous travelers cherish these moments of connection with Turkey’s enduring cultural heritage.
Planning Your Eastern Anatolian Adventure
Traveling through this region rewards those willing to embrace the rhythm of local life. Rural buses connect major towns, but renting a car offers flexibility to explore hidden valleys and village festivals. Spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October) provide ideal weather – comfortable temperatures for sightseeing plus the bonus of wildflower blooms or harvest colors. Pack sturdy walking shoes for archaeological sites, a reusable water bottle for hydration between çay breaks, and an open heart to embrace unexpected hospitality.
Accommodation ranges from restored Ottoman mansions in Amasya to simple family-run pansiyons in Divriği. Wherever you stay, don’t miss breakfast – eastern Anatolian kahvaltı spreads featuring dozens of local specialties like fresh kaymak (clotted cream), orchard honey, and savory gözleme pancakes make for memorable starts to exploration days.
Key Locations in Eastern & North Central Anatolia
Journey Through Time: Uncovering Anatolia’s Hittite Treasures
Imagine standing where ancient kings once processed, your footsteps echoing through temple courtyards that witnessed empires rise and fall. Welcome to Boğazkale – the beating heart of what was once the mighty Hittite Empire. Just a three-hour drive east of Ankara, this rolling countryside holds secrets etched in stone, waiting to transport you back over three thousand years.
Boğazkale: Gateway to a Forgotten Empire
The sleepy village of Boğazkale belies its extraordinary historical significance. Here, nestled amidst landscapes unchanged since antiquity, you’ll find Turkey’s most impressive collection of Hittite ruins. Three remarkable sites form this UNESCO World Heritage treasure:
The Royal Capital: Hattuşa
Spread across a dramatic hillside south of modern Boğazkale, the sprawling ruins of Hattuşa will leave you breathless. Enclosed by an incredible 6km of defensive walls, this was the Manhattan of its era – a colossal city that commanded respect across the ancient world. As you climb the same slopes where Hittite chariots once rolled, you’ll understand why rulers chose this strategic vantage point overlooking fertile plains.
Walking Through History: Key Sites at Hattuşa
The Architectural Wonder: Büyük Mabet
Your journey begins at the Great Temple, where spiritual and political power intertwined. Built around 1300 BC, this sacred space dedicated to storm god Teshuba and sun goddess Hebut reveals the Hittites’ sophisticated urban planning. Imagine priests carrying offerings through storage rooms that once held abundant harvests – excavations here uncovered giant earthenware jars that could hold over 2,000 liters of grain!
Royal Processional Way
Follow the original ceremonial path marked by ancient slabs, passing fascinating artifacts like the “wedding stone” gifted by Egypt’s Ramses II. This massive green rock symbolizes history’s first recorded peace treaty between empires – a diplomatic marriage that joined Hittite and Egyptian royal families.
Guardians of the City: Monumental Gates
The legendary Lion Gate (Aslanlıkapı) still commands attention with its imposing stone sentinels. These feline guardians weren’t mere decoration – they represented divine protection against invaders and evil spirits. Nearby, the Sphinx Gate (Yerkapı) hides an engineering marvel: a 70m underground tunnel built using advanced corbel arch techniques. Was this secret passage for surprise military maneuvers or ceremonial processions? Archaeologists still debate its purpose.
Divine Majesty: King’s Gate Relief
Don’t miss the iconic warrior carving at Kralkapı. Though called the “King’s Gate,” this imposing figure actually depicts god Teshuba. Notice his distinctive conical crown and raised fist – originally brandishing a bronze sword that glittered in the Anatolian sun. The detailed musculature reveals Hittite artists’ remarkable skill in bringing stone to life.
Beyond the Capital: Regional Wonders
Yazılıkaya: Nature’s Sacred Temple
A short drive east of Hattuşa brings you to Anatolia’s most striking open-air sanctuary. Unlike the constructed temples of the capital, Yazılıkaya’s natural rock formations became a canvas for Hittite spirituality. Walking between these towering limestone crevices feels like entering a divine procession – over ninety deities march in eternal ceremony across the weathered stone walls.
Alacahöyük: Where Kings Rest
For the complete historical picture, venture 25km north to Alacahöyük. Though requiring private transport, this royal necropolis rewards visitors with stunning golden artifacts and the famous Hittite “sun disk” standards. Thirteen royal tombs revealed extraordinary treasures now displayed in Ankara’s Museum of Anatolian Civilizations – walking this ancient burial ground connects you to the empire’s spiritual worldview.
Decoding the Hittite Legacy
Who were these mysterious empire-builders? Our journey through their ruins reveals fascinating clues about Anatolia’s first superpower.
Origins of an Empire
Arriving in Anatolia around 2000 BCE, these Indo-European migrants likely came from the Caucasus or Balkans. Their rise remains partly mysterious – burned Hatti settlement layers suggest violent conquest, yet the Hittites also absorbed local deities and traditions. By 1430 BCE, Tudhaliyas II forged scattered city-states into a formidable empire rivaling Egypt and Babylon.
Diplomats & Warriors
The Hittites excelled in both warfare and statecraft. Under Suppiluliuma I (1380-1315 BCE), they crushed the Mitanni kingdom and became Middle Eastern power brokers. Their correspondence with Egyptian pharaohs – preserved on clay tablets – reveals sophisticated diplomacy. When Tutankhamun’s widow requested a Hittite prince for marriage, it sparked intrigue ending in royal assassination!
Engineering Marvels
What truly astonishes at Hattuşa is the Hittites’ architectural prowess. Their 6km defensive walls incorporated sloping glacis (embankments) surfaced with slippery limestone slabs – an ancient anti-siege measure. Even today, climbing these inclines makes you appreciate how formidable attackers found these defenses.
Planning Your Visit: Modern Discoveries
New Archaeological Museum in Çorum
Before exploring the sites, consider starting at Çorum’s modern archaeological museum. This state-of-the-art facility displays artifacts unearthed during ongoing excavations, providing crucial context. Highlights include cuneiform tablets detailing Hittite laws – remarkably progressive for their time – and reconstructed temple facades that help visualize the ruins’ original splendor.
Ongoing Research
Excavations continue rewriting Hittite history. Recent discoveries include:
A 3,800-year-old merchant quarter below the Great Temple, where archaeologists found bilingual inscriptions (Hittite hieroglyph and Akkadian cuneiform) – the “Rosetta Stone” that cracked the Hittite code
Underground grain storage systems demonstrating advanced agricultural planning
A monumental pool complex suggesting elaborate purification rituals
Bringing History to Life: Practical Tips
Best Times to Visit
Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) offer pleasant temperatures and landscape colors. Summer visits require early starts to beat the heat, while winter reveals dramatic panoramas dusted with snow – though some areas may be inaccessible.
Guided vs Independent Exploration
While signage has improved, hiring a licensed guide brings the stones to life. Local experts can point out details like:
Ancient quarry marks on temple foundation stones
The astronomical alignment of key structures
Hidden reliefs only visible in specific lighting
Essential Comforts
Wear sturdy walking shoes – the ruins cover miles of uneven terrain. Bring sun protection and ample water; shade is limited. Don’t miss the small café near the Boğazkale museum for çay (tea) and gözleme (savoury pancakes) after exploring.
The Hittite Legacy in Modern Turkey
As you stand where Suppiluliuma plotted military campaigns or where priests once chanted to storm gods, you become part of an unbroken human story. The Hittites shaped Anatolia’s cultural DNA – their legal concepts influenced later civilizations, while their artistic motifs still appear in Turkish textiles and ceramics.
From the enduring mysteries of their undeciphered hieroglyphs to the echoes of their treaties in modern diplomacy, this civilization continues speaking across millennia. As ongoing excavations reveal new wonders, one truth becomes clear: in the rolling hills around Boğazkale, the spirit of the Hittites remains as tangible as the colossal stones they left behind.
The Forgotten Kingdoms: Exploring Anatolia’s Ancient Wonders
Tucked away in the heart of modern Turkey lie archaeological treasures whispering tales of vanished empires. From the mighty Hittites who once ruled Anatolia to the Seljuk marvels that still grace city skylines, this rugged landscape serves as an open-air museum of human civilization. Join me on a journey through time as we explore these forgotten kingdoms and their enduring legacies.
The Rise and Fall of the Hittite Empire
Before Rome dominated the Mediterranean world, another powerhouse held sway over Anatolia. The Hittites built an astonishingly advanced civilization that flourished between 1650-1200 BC, establishing their capital at Hattuşa (modern Boğazkale). Their strategic location northeast of Ankara provided natural defenses while controlling vital trade routes.
What made the Hittite Empire extraordinary wasn’t just its military might, but its sophisticated governance. Kings ruled absolutely, yet surprisingly consulted the panku – an influential assembly that could challenge royal decisions. Their society divided clearly between free citizens (farmers, artisans, bureaucrats) and slaves who enjoyed unheard-of rights like property ownership and legal marriages.
The Spiritual World of Bronze Age Anatolia
The Hittites weren’t theological innovators but masterful adaptors. They inherited their principal deities – weather god Teshuba and sun goddess Hebut – from the indigenous Hatti people. What’s fascinating is how they assimilated gods from conquered territories. Imagine walking through their temples and encountering shrines to over a thousand deities! This religious pragmatism helped maintain control over diverse subject peoples.
Walk through Hattuşa’s Lion Gate today and you’ll sense this spiritual complexity. Colossal stone guardians still watch over processional ways where priests once carried statues of gods during festivals. The nearby Yazılıkaya open-air sanctuary features rock reliefs of this divine assembly frozen in stone.
The Empire’s Dramatic Collapse
Around 1200 BC, catastrophe struck. The mysterious Sea Peoples unleashed havoc across the Mediterranean, coinciding with the fall of Troy. Hattuşa burned, likely abandoned rather than conquered. In the power vacuum, Phrygian tribes moved into former Hittite cities, repurposing their monumental architecture.
Sivas: Where Seljuk Splendor Meets Modern Tragedy
Fast forward to medieval Anatolia, and another city emerges from the historical shadows. Sivas might surprise modern visitors – this orderly provincial capital of 200,000 conceals one of Turkey’s finest collections of Seljuk architecture. Wander around Konak Meydanı and you’ll encounter stone masterpieces that rival more famous sites.
Architectural Time Capsules
The thirteenth-century Buruciye Medrese exemplifies Seljuk sophistication. Its portal explodes with intricate stone carving – geometric patterns interwoven with floral motifs and Kufic inscriptions. Step inside to discover students still studying in rooms where scholars debated eight centuries ago. Nearby, the Çifte Minare Medrese’s twin minarets frame Anatolia’s bluest skies, their turquoise tiles catching the light.
Don’t miss the Gök Medrese (Blue Seminary) either. Despite losing its namesake tiles, its façade remains a sculptural masterpiece. Legend says Mongol ruler Hulagu Khan commissioned it after converting to Islam – a powerful statement in stone.
The City’s Turbulent Past
Sivas has always been a crossroads. Hittite foundations gave way to Roman, Byzantine, and eventually Seljuk rule. After the 1071 Battle of Manzikert, it briefly became the Sultanate of Rum’s capital. The Mongol İlhanids later left their mark before Tamerlane’s brutal 1400 siege left Christians slaughtered and buildings ruined.
The Shadow of 1993
Ask Turks about Sivas today, and many recall July 2, 1993. What began as a cultural festival honoring Alevi poet Pir Sultan Abdal turned tragic. Islamic fundamentalists, enraged by writer Aziz Nesin’s Turkish translation of Rushdie’s Satanic Verses, surrounded the Madımak Hotel. As flames engulfed the building, 37 people perished – intellectuals, musicians, hotel staff. Nesin narrowly escaped. Today, the site remains a painful memorial to Turkey’s ongoing identity struggles.
Tokat: The Undiscovered Gem of Northern Anatolia
Many travelers rush past Tokat on their way to Amasya or Cappadocia, missing one of Anatolia’s most atmospheric towns. Framed by jagged cliffs and a looming Pontic fortress, Tokat rewards slower exploration with Ottoman hans, Seljuk theology schools, and kebab so legendary it qualifies as cultural heritage.
Walking Through Layers of History
Start at Tokat’s castle. Though mostly ruined, its position offers panoramic views over red-roofed neighborhoods clinging to hillsides. In town, the Ali Paşa Hamam transports you to Ottoman luxury with its domed steam rooms and marble washbasins. Nearby, the Latifoğlu Konağı mansion showcases nineteenth-century elegance with its hand-painted ceilings and elaborate woodwork.
The Gök Medrese, built by Seljuk vizier Pervane Bey in 1277, astonishes with its portal’s depth-carved stonework. Astronomy and medicine were taught here under Mongol rule. Today, it houses a museum displaying everything from Hittite seals to Ottoman calligraphy.
Historical Echoes in Every Alley
Tokat’s significance dates to Persian Royal Road days, when it linked Sardis to Persepolis. Julius Caesar immortalized nearby Zile with his veni, vidi, vici after crushing Pharnaces II in 47 BC. Later, Byzantines fortified against Arab raids before Seljuks and Mongols played tug-of-war for control. The Ottoman revival brought prosperity through copperware and printed textiles – industries still visible in artisan workshops today.
The Kebab That Launched a Thousand Sighs
No Tokat experience is complete without its namesake kebab. Picture this: tender lamb marinated in thyme and pistachio paste, roasted in a stone oven until the meat falls whispering from the bone. Served with plum sauce and flatbread, it’s a dish worthy of sultans. Locals debate whether Tokat Kebab Cultural Center or Şelale Restaurant makes the best version – try both and decide!
Why These Cities Matter Today
Beyond their historical significance, Sivas and Tokat represent living connections to Turkey’s multilayered identity. In Sivas’ Seljuk monuments, we see the Islamic scholarship that advanced mathematics and astronomy. Tokat’s Ottoman hans speak to centuries of trade linking East and West.
The tragic events in Sivas remind us how history’s tensions remain unresolved. Meanwhile, archaeologists keep rewriting Anatolia’s story. Recent excavations at Hittite sites reveal bilingual inscriptions helping decode ancient languages. Who knows what secrets still lie buried beneath these ancient soils?
Planning Your Visit
Spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October) offer pleasant weather for exploring these inland cities. Base yourself in Ankara for Hattuşa day trips. Sivas and Tokat have good hotels – try Kongar Hotel near Sivas’ medreses or Tokat’s Art-No hotel in a restored Ottoman mansion.
Don’t rush. Sit in Sivas’ Şifaiye Medrese courtyard sipping çay as students have for centuries. In Tokat, watch coppersmiths hammering trays as their ancestors did. These aren’t just open-air museums but living communities where history breathes through every stone and smile.
🌟 The Travaloca Travel Editors Community is a dynamic collective of individuals united by their passion for travel and their dedication to high-quality content creation. This community serves as the driving force behind Travaloca's informative and engaging travel resources. ✨ Core Identity: This group consists primarily of passionate travel enthusiasts who have turned their love for exploration into a commitment to writing and content curation. Members are recognized for their: Extensive Travel Experience: Possessing valuable firsthand knowledge from their journeys worldwide. Aptitude for Writing and Editing: Demonstrating a keen interest and skill in crafting, reviewing, and perfecting travel narratives, guides, tips, and reviews. Dedication to Storytelling: Transforming personal experiences and destination knowledge into accessible, inspiring, and reliable information for a global audience. 📝 Community Focus: The community’s primary role is to contribute, edit, and maintain the diverse range of content on Travaloca's platform. They ensure the information provided is accurate, engaging, and reflective of current travel trends. In essence, the Travaloca Travel Editors Community is where travel passion meets editorial excellence, enriching the user experience and solidifying Travaloca’s standing as a trusted travel resource.
