Discovering Arequipa: Peru’s White City and Its Hidden Treasures
Nestled in the shadow of snow-capped volcanoes, Arequipa dazzles visitors with its colonial charm, vibrant culture, and stunning natural surroundings. While Peru’s second city often gets overshadowed by Cusco and Machu Picchu, those who venture here discover a destination brimming with architectural wonders, living traditions, and some of South America’s most breathtaking landscapes.
Exploring Arequipa’s Architectural Jewel
The Monastery of Santa Catalina
No visit to Arequipa is complete without stepping into the rainbow-hued dreamscape of Santa Catalina Monastery. Founded in 1579, this 20,000-square-meter religious complex feels like a city within a city with its twisting cobblestone alleys, bright blue walls, and flower-filled courtyards. As you wander through what was once a secretive cloistered community, you’ll discover how 150 nuns and 300 servants once lived completely isolated from the outside world.
The monastery undergoes a magical transformation at sunset when golden light washes over its iconic arches. Today, visitors might encounter unexpected cultural experiences within these historic walls. The complex’s chapel – originally built as communal dormitories – now stuns visitors with acoustics so perfect they’d make sound engineers weep. This has made it one of Peru’s most sought-after venues for classical concerts and fairytale weddings. With space for 750 standing guests or 350 seated diners, imagine Mozart’s requiem echoing through 400-year-old corridors as chefs prepare traditional rocoto relleno in the kitchens below.
A Hidden Trove of Religious Art
Before leaving this spiritual sanctuary, art lovers should explore the monastery’s often-overlooked religious art museum. While the dim lighting creates an atmospheric journey through Peru’s spiritual artistry, your persistence will reward you with rare works from the seventeenth to nineteenth centuries. The final chamber showcases masterpieces from the renowned Cusqueña school – but keep your eyes peeled for the museum’s showstopper.
Tucked in the corner near the entrance, an anonymous nineteenth-century Arequipan artist created something truly extraordinary – a depiction of Mary Magdalene that looks centuries ahead of its time. The sorrowful saint emerges from a fractured, near-Cubist landscape of jagged rocks that wouldn’t look out of place in a Picasso exhibition. This unexpected modernist gem reminds us that artistic innovation flourished in Peru long before European modernism came onto the scene.
The Soulful Soundtrack of Arequipa
Arequipa’s cultural heartbeat pulses strongest through its music. The city harbors a profound tradition of folk singing and poetic improvisation that continues thriving in local peñas (music venues). Wander the cobblestone streets in the evening and you’ll likely hear the mournful notes of yaraví drifting through the air – soulful laments accompanied by acoustic guitars that speak to the Peruvian heart’s melancholy and resilience.
Recent years have seen an exciting musical evolution. Arequipa’s younger generation blends traditional roots with Latin rhythms and Cuban beats, creating electrifying fusion music. On weekends, the city vibrates with everything from troubadour ballads to full bands featuring electric guitars, thumping drums, and synthesizers. For authentic musical experiences, follow the locals to atmospheric venues where musicians migrate between peñas like musical nomads, guitar cases slung over their shoulders.
Beyond the City Walls: Arequipa’s Natural Wonderland
Arequipa serves as the perfect basecamp for some of Peru’s most spectacular adventures. Whether you join an organized tour or embrace the thrill of local transport (warning: not for the faint-hearted!), these landscapes promise unforgettable experiences.
Nearby Gems
Within easy reach of the city center, history buffs will adore Sabandía’s charming village and the beautifully preserved Casa del Fundador manor house – both under 20km away. For picnic enthusiasts, the Inca ruins of Paucarpata offer breathtaking views from their perch on El Misti’s slopes. Aspiring mountaineers take note: while conquering this 5,822-meter volcano promises extraordinary views, attempting it without professional guides could turn your adventure into a cautionary tale.
Culture seekers shouldn’t miss Chapi, where centuries-old religious traditions come alive amid picturesque scenery. Meanwhile, archaeology enthusiasts can ponder over Sumbay Caves’ mysterious prehistoric paintings located just a short drive from the city on the road to Caylloma.
The Colca Canyon Experience
Prepare your camera and hiking boots for Arequipa’s crowning glory – Colca Canyon. Stretching 200km north of the city, this geological wonder draws comparisons to Machu Picchu for its ability to drop jaws. Accessed through the quaint town of Chivay, Colca has rapidly evolved into Peru’s adventure capital between May and September (dry season).
The journey itself becomes part of the adventure as you traverse Aguada Blanca National Reserve, spotting vicuñas and flamingos on high-altitude plains. But the true magic awaits at Cruz del Cóndor viewpoint. Here at dawn, the world’s largest flying birds – Andean condors with wingspans stretching 3 meters – ride thermal currents so close you’ll feel the rush of air through their feathers. Nobel laureate Mario Vargas Llosa dubbed this “The Valley of Marvels,” and when you stand looking into depths nearly double those of Arizona’s Grand Canyon, you’ll understand why.
Chivay: Gateway to Adventure
Surrounded by ancient terracing that showcases Inca agricultural genius, Chivay makes an ideal base for exploring Colca Canyon. Don’t be surprised to see more international faces than local ones in this bustling market town – it’s become the headquarters for canyon explorers. Along Avenida Salaverey, vibrant markets burst with alpaca textiles and artisan crafts beneath jagged mountain backdrops.
As you adjust to the 3,635-meter altitude (pro tip: sip coca tea but avoid alcohol your first night), Chivay’s growing selection of comfortable lodgings and restaurants keep you well-fueled. Most adventurers eventually press onward to villages like Cabanaconde for serious trekking, but Chivay’s authentic charm makes lingering tempting.
La Calera’s Healing Waters
A mere 5km from Chivay lies La Calera’s greatest treasure – geothermal pools that turn hiking aches into distant memories. Native legends claim these 85°C waters bubbling straight from volcanic depths can cure arthritis and rheumatism. Whether or not you believe the healing claims, lounging in these perfectly maintained thermal baths while watching condors circle overhead provides its own therapy.
Don’t miss the small onsite museum explaining Andean spiritual traditions. Watching demonstrations of offerings to Pachamama (Mother Earth) adds deeper meaning to your soak in her geothermal gifts.
The Valley of Fire and Stone
West toward the Pacific coast lies one of Peru’s most surreal landscapes – the Valley of the Volcanoes. This 65km stretch along the Río Andagua looks like someone transplanted Iceland’s volcanic fields to the Andes. Here, over 100 extinct cones ranging from 200-300 meters tall create a panorama that challenges your sense of reality.
The valley’s dramatic geology began forming 200,000 years ago when neighboring Mount Coropuna – Peru’s tallest volcano at 6,425 meters – underwent violent degassing eruptions. For the best perspective, hike up 4,800-meter Anaro Mountain. Looking southeast, you’ll witness a sea of volcanic cones including the iconic Gemini Twins (Los Gemelos) and Andomarca volcano – guarded by pre-Inca ruins at its base.
Ancient Mysteries and Competing Canyons
Petroglyph hunters shouldn’t miss Toro Muerto (“Dead Bull”), where over 6,000 ancient rock carvings sprawl across 5km² of desert 120km west of Arequipa. Gaze upon mysterious spiral patterns and camelid figures carved by the Wari culture over 1,500 years ago – an open-air art gallery older than Machu Picchu.
Upstaging even these wonders is Cotahuasi Canyon – Colca’s less-visited but equally impressive sibling. At 3,535 meters deep, some geologists consider it the world’s deepest canyon (contested only by nearby Colca). Here, traditional villages cling precariously to vertiginous slopes while thermal springs and thundering waterfalls reward intrepid hikers willing to venture off Peru’s beaten tourist paths.
Planning Your Arequipa Adventure
Whether you’re drawn by colonial architecture, Andean condors, or volcanic moonscapes, Arequipa offers unparalleled diversity. Allow at least five days to properly experience the city and its surroundings. Budget-conscious travelers can utilize affordable local buses (prepare for adventurous rides!), while guided tours provide hassle-free access to remote areas.
Remember that altitudes jump significantly outside the city: spend a day acclimatizing in Arequipa (2,335 meters) before heading to Chivay (3,635 meters) or higher. Bring layers – desert days blaze hot while nights turn frigid. Most importantly, come ready to fall in love with a region where every turn reveals new wonders, from mysterious petroglyphs to thermal baths beneath snow-capped volcanoes.
Arequipa isn’t just a destination – it’s an invitation to experience Peru beyond the postcards. Will you answer the call?
