Discover Jerash Beyond the Ruins: Northern Jordan’s Ancient Treasures Uncovered

Imagine golden hills dotted with ancient villages, where olive groves stretch toward pine forests and wheat fields sway in the breeze – welcome to northern Jordan, one of the Middle East’s most enchanting landscapes. Just a stone’s throw from Amman, this fertile region unfolds like a living tapestry of history, culture, and natural beauty, where every valley tells a story and every hilltop reveals breathtaking views.

Here, generations of farming families maintain timeless traditions, their roots reaching deep into the soil. Some lineages trace back centuries through Syrian and Transjordanian heritage, while others preserve Palestinian agricultural practices carried east after 1948. This cultural mosaic creates a rich human terrain as captivating as the physical landscape – a hidden gem awaiting travelers on Jordan adventures.

Ajloun Castle

Ajloun Forest Reserve

Jerash Ruins

Jordan Valley

Umm Qais

History whispers through every stone in this region, part of the ancient Decapolis league of Roman cities. Don’t miss the remarkably preserved ruins at Jerash – stroll colonnaded streets where chariots once raced – or Umm Qais’ dramatic hilltop perch overlooking three countries. Between these archaeological treasures stands imposing Ajloun Castle, a 12th-century Crusader-era fortress offering panoramic views across the highlands.

Nature lovers will adore the Ajloun Forest Reserve, where evergreen oak woodlands shelter hiking trails and community-led eco-projects. As you descend into the Jordan Valley, marvel at the climatic shift from Mediterranean hills to subtropical lowlands. Here, excavations at Pella continue uncovering millennia of continuous settlement, while charming Ottoman towns like Salt reveal another layer of Jordan’s living heritage through their honey-colored architecture and artisan traditions.

Ajloun: Northern Jordan’s Green Heart

Just 45 minutes from Jerash lies the emerald jewel of northern Jordan. Though centuries of logging for the Hejaz Railway reduced its legendary forests, Ajloun still cradles precious pockets of oak, pine, and pistachio woodlands perfect for nature walks. The area’s pleasant elevation provides cool breezes even in summer, making it ideal for hiking trails that wind past wild orchids and through villages where traditional cheese-making and soap-crafting thrive.

Ajloun: Jordan’s Forested Sanctuary

Imagine breathing pine-scented air while wandering through one of the world’s southernmost natural pine forests. Welcome to the Ajloun Highlands, where Crusader castles stand guard over olive groves and silent hillside paths whisper adventures. Use the market town of Ajloun – better yet, stay at one of the rural eco-lodges near the Ajloun Forest Reserve – as your base for off-grid exploration.

Pronounced “adge-loon”, this ancient town 25km west of Jerash reveals Jordan’s living history. Follow the market street from the bustling bus station to discover a 14th-century mosque with original Quranic carvings and a square minaret base. Chat with the friendly guardian who might offer an impromptu tour of this time capsule.

Trekking Through Time: From Castle to Ruins

When winter’s chill lifts (yes, it occasionally snows here!), northern Jordan transforms into a hiker’s paradise. Spring brings carpets of wildflowers beneath your boots as you chart your own course across these gentle slopes.

For the ultimate two-day adventure, trace the 36km path from Ajloun Castle to Pella’s ancient ruins. Start early with full water bottles – refill points are scarce. From the castle ramparts, your route unfolds: west along ridgelines, down into forested valleys, then up to the hidden Wadi al-Yabis. The first day treats you to Ottoman ruins bathed in golden sunset light – pitch your tent here between pomegranate blossoms and birdsong.

Day two winds through olive groves and babbling streams before reaching hilltop Kufr Abil. From this vantage point, country lanes descend to Pella’s archaeological wonders. For detailed route guidance, pack Tony Howard’s essential guide “Jordan: Walks, Treks, Caves, Climbs, Canyons”.

Balqa Hills: Jordan’s Forgotten Valleys

West of Amman, the Balqa region rolls toward the Jordan Valley in waves of emerald hills. Historic Salt – once Jordan’s most important town – presides over this landscape of secluded valleys and sleepy communities like Wadi Seer and Fuheis. Don’t miss Qasr al-Abd’s striking Hellenistic palace near Iraq al-Amir’s caves – all easily reached by bus or car from Amman.

Fuheis: Where Stone Cottages Meet Cement Clouds

Just 15km from Amman’s chaos lies Christian-majority Fuheis (“fhayce”). Come summer, the town’s legendary peaches almost compensate for the ever-present cement factory – the economic backbone that also clouds the air with dust.

Head straight for al-Balad, the old quarter where St. George’s dragon-slaying statue marks lanes of century-old cottages. Wander Wadi Rahwa’s steep paths as afternoon light gilds the stones, then reward yourself at one of Jordan’s finest Arabic restaurants. Time your visit for August’s town carnival or December’s Christmas concerts to see Fuheis at its liveliest.

Salt: Ottoman Elegance Frozen in Time

Step into a living museum at Salt, where Ottoman-era merchants built palaces from honey-colored limestone. When the railway chose Amman over Salt in the 1920s, this trading hub slipped into quiet obscurity – preserving its architectural treasures.

Start your exploration under towering eucalyptus trees on Maydan Street, surrounded by three emblematic hills. Al-Qal’a Hill’s white-domed mosque replaces the Mamluk fortress that once guarded the town, while al-Jada’a’s green peak offers perfect photo backdrops.

Beit Abu Jaber: Time-Travel Through Trading History

The restored Abu Jaber House showcases Salt’s golden age – Belgian stained glass, Italian marble, and Jerusalem tiles adorn rooms that once hosted wealthy merchants. Now housing the Historic Old Salt Museum, its top-floor salon offers panoramic town views and a charming café. Don’t leave without grabbing their heritage trail map to uncover hidden architectural gems.

Jabal Al Qala’s Rewarding Climb

Conquer the steep steps behind the museum to reach Salt’s highest point. Along the way, pause at the former English Hospital with its distinctive “EH” gates – now a pioneering vocational center. The summit rewards you with sunlight-drenched vistas stretching across Balqa’s endless hills.

Souk Hammam’s Atmospheric Alleys

Descend into the narrow lanes where Salt’s commercial pulse still beats. Though the namesake bathhouse vanished last century, Hammam Street’s vaulted passageways brim with spice sacks, copperware, and locals bargaining over fresh produce. It’s the perfect place to practice your Arabic greetings while hunting for authentic souvenirs.

Souk Hammam: Jordan’s Living History

Tucked away in Salt’s historic heart lies Souk Hammam – a narrow lane where time seems to stand still. This atmospheric market street whispers stories from Salt’s golden age through every weathered stone. Wander past stunning mosques and honey-stone Ottoman architecture that glows warmly in the sunlight. Here you’ll find what many consider Jordan’s oldest – and finest – traditional souk, where the air dances with spice aromas and locals bargain for vibrant fabrics and household goods.

Salt Archeological Museum: Where Stones Speak

At Souk Hammam’s end, a right turn reveals Beit Touqan’s graceful arches – home to Salt’s fascinating Archaeological Museum. This Ottoman-era mansion (once home to the influential Touqan family) now displays Jordan’s layered past through exhibits like a working Mamluk sugar mill model and Neolithic dolmen landscapes. Don’t miss the tranquil upper courtyard café – perfect for sipping mint tea while imagining royalty walking these same halls (Queen Alia herself hailed from the Touqan lineage).

Far North Jordan’s Hidden Treasures

Jordan’s northern frontier reveals a landscape of rolling hills that explode with wildflowers each spring. Between olive groves and fig orchards, you’ll discover hilltop villages steeped in biblical history. Umm Qais crowns this region with its legendary Gadara ruins – where Jesus performed the miracle of casting demons into swine – offering breathtaking views across the Sea of Galilee. Below snakes the dramatic Yarmouk River Gorge, its steep cliffs marking the border with the Golan Heights.

Borderland Beauty: Yarmouk Gorge Road

Adventure calls along the Yarmouk Gorge’s winding road, where you’ll need your passport handy for frequent checkpoints. This breathtaking yet tense frontier route unveils panorama after panorama – from the bombed-out hulk of a 1967 war bridge clinging to cliffside, to banana plantations surrounding Himmeh village where Israeli watchtowers loom surprisingly close. After 6km of jaw-dropping vistas, the road turns toward Shuneh ash-Shamaliyyeh’s bustling markets, eventually leading south to magical Pella.

Hidden Histories: Abila’s Whispers

Eastward near Irbid lies Wadi Qwaylbeh’s peaceful embrace, sheltering the partly excavated ruins of ancient Abila. As another member of the legendary Decapolis cities, this archaeological treasure rewards explorers with Byzantine frescoes adorning rock-cut tombs and the quiet thrill of walking where Roman citizens once strolled.