Nestled on the eastern edge of Brazil’s Pantanal, Coxim offers adventurers a perfect blend of wilderness and culture. Just a three to four-hour bus ride from Campo Grande (or six to seven from Cuiabá), this former Caiapó Indian territory invites visitors to experience its rugged beauty. Once a battleground where indigenous warriors fiercely resisted Portuguese expansion in the 1700s, today Coxim thrives as a paradise for anglers and nature lovers.
Fishing and Natural Splendor
Local legend Pirambero leads unforgettable fishing expeditions into the Pantanal’s waterways. Glide along the Rio Taquari to battle notorious piranhas or get your temporary fishing permit (R$25) from IBAMA at Rua Floriano Peixoto 304 or Banco do Brasil. For expert tips, visit the Iate Clube Rio Verde fishing club in Bairro Piracema.
When you’re not reeling in trophy catches, dive into the refreshing waters around Campo Falls—if you dare to share the river with razor-toothed fish! Nearby Palmeiras Falls offers idyllic picnic spots and camping beneath swaying palms. Visit between November and January to witness nature’s grandest show: the piracema phenomenon, when thousands of fish leap upstream in a silver-scaled ballet of survival.
Westward Journey: Campo Grande to Corumbá
As your bus rolls west from Campo Grande, watch the landscape transform from open savanna to the dramatic Serra de Maracaju—massive hills rising like stone titans from the plains. Near Camisão station, lush valleys burst with sugarcane and cattle ranches, while the swamp’s edge reveals Miranda, another angler’s haven.
The Resilient Terena Legacy
These hills sheltered Terena tribes during Paraguay’s 1864 invasion, a rare moment when indigenous warriors and settlers united against a common foe. After decades struggling for land rights, engineer-turned-advocate Lieutenant Rondon helped secure their territory following his telegraph line expedition (1903). Today, the Terena thrive between Aquidauana and Miranda, their vibrant crafts sold in Campo Grande markets. Visit Taunay village for mule cart rides and insight into their resilient culture.
Aquidauana: Mysteries & Forgotten Cities
Once a crucial Pantanal gateway, sleepy Aquidauana now beckons history buffs and offbeat explorers. Escape the highway’s bustle to uncover two hidden gems: the vine-covered ruins of Cidade de Xaraés (founded by Spanish conquistadors in 1580), and prehistoric etchings at Morro do Desenho left by ancient river cultures.
Corumbá: Heart of the Pantanal
Baking under tropical heat at just 119m elevation, Corumbá (“Place of Stones” in Tupi) pulses with frontier spirit. Once feared for its mosquito hordes and vampire bats, this swamp-encircled city now welcomes adventurers crossing from Bolivia or venturing into the wetlands. Its strategic rail link—now defunct—hints at past struggles, but today Corumbá thrives as the ultimate Pantanal basecamp.
Border Crossing: Brazil to Bolivia Made Simple
Corumbá offers straightforward border access. Before journeying to Quijarro:
- Get exit stamps at Corumbá’s Polícia Federal (Praça da República 51; visit before 11am or 7-9pm)
- Bolivian visas available at Consulate of Bolivia (Rua Antônio Maria Coelho 881)
- Bus to border (10km from Praça Independência)
Board the Santa Cruz train from Quijarro station with tickets available up to two days prior. Opt for first-class (R$70) for cleaner conditions and screens, though pack essentials:
- Insect repellent (night bites swarm lighted carriages)
- Long-sleeved clothing
- Torch and bottled water
U.S. citizens must secure Brazilian visas before departing Santa Cruz. Change money at decent rates once you clear immigration.
