As you leave Alausí’s central highlands behind, a 93km journey south along the Pan-American Highway brings you to El Tambo—the gateway to Ecuador’s most significant Inca treasure. Just 8km east of this crossroads lies Ingapirca, the southern highlands’ crown jewel. While smaller than Peru’s famous ruins, Ingapirca dazzles visitors with its breathtaking mortarless stonework and atmospheric hilltop setting—a must-see testament to Inca engineering brilliance.
Southward from here unfolds a quieter but equally fascinating stretch of the Andes. The 79km route from El Tambo to Cuenca reveals authentic highland life through colonial towns like Cañar with its vibrant Sunday market, the spiritual sanctuary of Biblián, and the provincial charm of Azogues. This less-traveled corridor weaves together living traditions and ancient history, creating the perfect cultural prelude to Ecuador’s southern highlands.
The Southern Sierra Travel Guide
Cañar: Where Tradition Comes Alive
Just seven kilometers south of El Tambo, the cobblestone streets of Cañar beckon with colonial charm. While peaceful most days, the town transforms every Sunday when its vibrant market bursts into color. Watch local women proudly display intricately embroidered blouses and skirts while men showcase their skillfully woven belts featuring dual-sided designs. You might even spot traditional samarros—distinctive sheepskin riding trousers still worn by horsemen.
Though more appealing than neighboring El Tambo, Cañar offers modest accommodations. The central Residencial Mónica (07/2235486; $11–15) provides clean, budget-friendly rooms, while Ingapirca Hostal (07/2235201; $16–20) offers TV-equipped rooms with private baths. For authentic local dining, try Los Maderos on Pichincha Street or Florida International on 5 de Junio—both serving hearty menus del día that fuel explorers.
Tracing History: The Inca Trail Adventure
For adventurous spirits, the Inca Trail to Ingapirca offers a breathtaking three-day journey along the ancient Royal Road that once connected Cuzco to Quito. This 40km trek begins in the remote village of Achupallas, accessible via rugged roads from Alausí. Most travelers hire a camioneta (pickup truck) from near Alausí’s Panamericano hotel—local drivers know these mountain routes best.
Serious hikers typically start before dawn, though spending a night at Achupallas’ simple Ingañán Hostel (03/2930652; $11–15) lets you begin refreshed. Essential preparations include:
- IGM topographic maps (Alausí, Juncal, Cañar)
- Full camping gear and waterproof layers
- Sturdy boots for boggy highland terrain
- Lightweight pack (you’ll hike between 3,100-4,400m elevation)
The journey unfolds through spectacular páramo landscapes with ridge-top vistas that steal your breath—both from altitude and beauty. While most terrain feels wonderfully remote, the final stretch introduces friendly local children curious about visitors.
Suggested Itinerary
Day 1: Achupallas to Laguna Las Tres Cruces (6-8 hours) through stunning valleys—consider camping early if the climb proves challenging.
Day 2: Lakeside trek to Paredones ruins near Laguna Culebrillas (6-7 hours), where Inca foundations whisper secrets.
Day 3: Final descent to Ingapirca (4-5 hours), where ancient stones reward your efforts.
Ingapirca: Ecuador’s Inca Masterpiece
Crowning a windswept hilltop, Ingapirca (“Inca Wall” in Quechua) reveals the empire’s fifteenth-century expansion into Ecuador. Built atop a Cañari settlement dating back 500+ years, this strategic complex served multiple roles—sacred temple, military fortress, and vital rest stop along the Royal Road.
While Spanish colonists repurposed many stones, the magnificent Temple of the Sun still dominates the site. Marvel at its oval platform’s seamless dry-stone masonry, where precisely carved blocks taper inward to stabilize the structure. The trapezoidal doorway—signature Inca architecture—leads to inner chambers where priests once performed ceremonies.
Wander among low foundation walls that hint at storerooms, dwellings, and ceremonial spaces. Don’t miss the nearby Cañari burial site, evidence of the culture that predated Inca conquest. From this panoramic vantage point, you’ll understand why both civilizations cherished this strategic location—where history literally stands stone upon stone.
Unearthing Ancient Mysteries: Your Guide to Ingapirca & Azogues
A journey to Ecuador’s highlands isn’t complete without experiencing the enigmatic Ingapirca ruins, where whispers of Cañari and Inca civilizations still echo through the stones. While time has claimed much of this archaeological treasure, the true magic lies in the stories brought to life by knowledgeable local guides. Stationed near the entrance, these storytellers reveal fascinating theories about the plaza’s former glory and lead you through the landscape’s hidden wonders.
Footsteps Through History
Your adventure begins with a one-kilometer loop trail winding through the ravine behind the ruins. Here, nature and ancient craftsmanship collide at Cara del Inca – an imposing rock face carved by time into a human profile with a distinct hooked nose. Nearby, discover the circular astronomical carvings of Casa del Sol and the Silla del Inca, a massive boulder throne actually repurposed from an ancient bath structure. Allow two hours to fully absorb these marvels with a guide’s insight.
Before leaving, step into the compact but captivating on-site museum. Its collection of Cañari pottery, Inca jewelry, and an excavated skeleton offers tangible connections to the past. Don’t miss the attached shop for unique crafts and books to continue your exploration at home.
Azogues Travel Essentials
The gateway to Ingapirca, Azogues welcomes travelers with convenient amenities. The bus terminal sits along Avenida 24 de Mayo (part of the Pan-American Highway), just northwest of the charming parque central.
Where to Rest Your Head
For modern comforts, Hotel Rivera (☎ 07/2248113; $26-35) delivers private baths and cable TV near the main avenue. Those seeking character will adore Hostal Peleusi (☎ 07/2245445; $16-20), perched above parque central with its balcony views. Bonus: the hostel sits above La Fornace, serving authentic pizza and gelato.
Flavors of the Highlands
Foodies rejoice! El Padrino on Bolívar Street crafts mouthwatering chicken dishes in a historic dining room. Seafood lovers should make a beeline to La Fogata for fresh catches near the main avenue. For quick bites, El Che near the park serves excellent juices and Mexican-inspired snacks.
Complete your visit with essential stops: Find communications at the Pacífictel office north of the park, and let the friendly locals guide you to hidden gems beyond the guidebook pages. This corner of Ecuador rewards travelers willing to explore beyond the well-trodden path – every carved stone and cobblestone street tells a story waiting to be discovered.
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