Don’t be deceived by the name – Madagascar’s Hauts Plateaux are anything but flat. This rugged highland backbone stretches from north of Antananarivo deep into the southern reaches, soaring between 800 and 2000 meters above sea level. Here, granite massifs and ancient lava ridges tumble into endless terraced valleys – a stunning testament to both geological forces and centuries of human craftsmanship.
While natural forest cover may be scarce, the region bursts with vibrant landscapes. Imagine emerald rice terraces cascading down valleys, dotted with traditional clay-brick homes in vivid hues. The scenery transforms at every turn, rewarding travelers who take their time exploring this cultural heartland. For adventurous spirits seeking more than just beaches, the Central Highlands offer an unforgettable dimension to any Madagascar journey.
Let’s explore the highlights along the iconic RN7 route – your gateway to Madagascar’s most fascinating inland destinations. Discover the bustling agricultural hub of Antsirabe, the historic charms of Fianarantsoa, the lush wonders of Ranomafana National Park, and Ambalavao’s playful ring-tailed lemurs at Anja Reserve.
A Taste of the Highlands: Coffee, Tea and Unexpected Wines
Madagascar’s central highlands boast ideal growing conditions with distinct seasons and abundant rainfall. This agricultural haven produces some delightful surprises:
Madagascar Coffee – Beyond Your Morning Brew
The eastern slopes yield between 20,000-30,000 tonnes of coffee annually, primarily robusta with some arabica. Small-scale farms near Antsirabe and Fianarantsoa produce quality arabica, while wild coffee trees grow abundantly – Madagascar actually nurtures over 50 native species! The Kianjavato research station showcases these botanical treasures, including low-caffeine varieties you won’t find anywhere else.
Sahambavy Tea – Island-Grown Perfection
Just east of Fianarantsoa lies Madagascar’s tea crown jewel – the Sahambavy plantation. Established in the 1970s with Kenyan cuttings, this lush 5km² estate produces nearly all the island’s tea (around 500 tonnes annually). The acidic soil and tropical rainfall create perfect conditions for tea bushes. Visitors can tour both fields and factory to watch the production process firsthand.
Madagascar Wine – An Unexpected Adventure
Here’s a tasting experience you won’t expect! French Jesuits first planted vineyards around Fianarantsoa and Ambalavao, where local producers now craft about 10 million liters annually. While most wines cater to local tastes, innovative vintners at Clos Nomena are rewriting the rules. Since 2011, they’ve pioneered Madagascar’s first vintage wines using French noble grapes – a promising development for oenophiles willing to seek out these premium bottles.
Crafted Wonders: Ambatolampy to Antsirabe
South of Antananarivo lies AMBATOLAMPY, a historic metalworking town where craftsmanship thrives. The roadside comes alive with vibrant stalls – each cluster specializing in particular crafts. Look for beautifully woven baskets, colorful metal toys, and surprisingly good local instruments (perfect unique souvenirs).
As you wind south along the RN7, prepare for visual feasts around every bend: patchwork rice paddies shimmering in countless green shades, rust-red hills rich in iron oxide, and charming houses with wood-smoke darkened windows. Keep an eye out for locals riding gravity-powered trolleys (varamba) down hills – a practical (and thrilling!) local transport solution. To the west, the volcanic Ankaratra Massif looms – its occasional snowy peaks and thermal springs hinting at geological forces still at work.
Into the Wild: Ranomafana National Park
Welcome to “warm water” paradise – Ranomafana National Park offers one of Madagascar’s most accessible rainforest experiences. This UNESCO World Heritage Site sprawls across 435km² of the Namorona River basin, where ocean mists nurture incredible biodiversity. With over 1,025 plant species, 130 reptiles/amphibians, 114 bird species, and 12 types of lemurs, every trail promises discoveries.
Time your visit wisely for optimal wildlife encounters: April-May and August-December offer best conditions. Adventure seekers should visit December-April for river kayaking opportunities. Though rain falls 200 days annually, the heaviest downpours come December-March. June-July sees cooler temperatures and hibernating creatures, while August kicks off the lively breeding season. Remember – even during drier months, afternoon rains might send animals into hiding!
Trails Through Paradise
Ranomafana’s trail network spans four main districts. On the park’s north side, discover…
Discover Ranomafana: Madagascar’s Emerald Wonderland
Nestled in Madagascar’s lush highlands, Ranomafana National Park invites adventurers into a misty realm where nature thrives in technicolor. Divided between the northern districts of Vohiparara and Soarano, and the southern Varibolo and expansive Varijatsy areas, this UNESCO World Heritage site offers an unforgettable immersion into one of Earth’s most unique ecosystems.
Trails That Bring the Forest to Life
Most visitors begin their journey at the park visitor center, descending into the Namorona River valley via the historic Talatakely trail. The recently constructed “Pont Aureus” footbridge serves as your gateway to Varibolo’s network of paths. Trails range from leisurely walks to challenging hikes, but you’ll be too mesmerized by fluttering chameleons and chirping frogs to notice the burn in your thighs until tomorrow. Pro tip: Secure your permit the day before and hit the trails at dawn when wildlife is most active.
Know Before You Go: While night walks are officially restricted, some guides offer limited excursions along RN25’s grassy verges. These road-bound adventures yield sleepy chameleons and tiny frogs, but watch for trucks – their headlights startle nocturnal mouse lemurs.
Where Science Meets the Canopy: Centre ValBio
Perched like a futuristic treehouse, Stony Brook University’s Centre ValBio redefines sustainable research. This architectural marvel (opened in 2011 by legendary primatologist Patricia Wright) floats amid the rainforest without disturbing a single root. Visitors can tour cutting-edge labs studying everything from lemur behavior to medicinal plants, but book ahead – this place buzzes with PhD students and conservationists.
Steam Therapy: Ranomafana’s Thermal Springs
After trekking through humid trails, join locals soaking in nature’s hot tub at Centre Thermal. The public pool bubbles with geothermal warmth from underground springs beneath the Namorona River. While the treatment center’s massage rooms often sit quiet, dipping into these mineral-rich waters provides the perfect trail-weary remedy for sore muscles.
A Botanical Wonderland
Cross into the park proper and you’ll enter a world where plants tell stories of adaptation. Though some areas show signs of 1980s cultivation, nature has fiercely reclaimed its territory. Keep your eyes peeled during May-June when strawberry guava trees burst with fruit, attracting red-bellied lemurs and majestic black-and-white ruffed lemurs feasting in the canopy.
The park’s real showstoppers? Towering endemic bamboos reaching for the sky, including the massive Cathariostachis madagascariensis species. Between the bamboo groves, delicate orchids cling to ancient tree ferns whose trunks have sheltered generations of Tanala people.
Lemurs: The Forest’s Acrobats
Ranomafana hosts twelve lemur species that turn the canopy into a circus of fur and motion. Three bamboo specialists steal the show:
- Golden Bamboo Lemurs: Cyanide-munching marvels first discovered in 1986, often spotted munching breakfast shoots at dawn
- Greater Bamboo Lemurs: Ghostly rare primates with distinctive ear tufts, surviving against all odds
- Milne-Edwards’ Sifakas: Fluffy-headed acrobats performing death-defying leaps between trees
Beyond lemurs, watch for the wide-eyed eastern red forest rat scampering across trails and the elusive fanaloka – Madagascar’s answer to a civet – hunting under moonlight.
Birds That Defy Imagination
Ranomafana’s avian residents look like they escaped from a fantasy novel. Seek out these feathered jewels:
Spot the velvet asity males sporting metallic blue-green plumage and electric blue face wattles during mating season. Listen for the haunting call of the slender-billed flufftail in dense undergrowth. With patience, you might glimpse a short-legged ground roller frozen like a feathered statue on a low branch.
The Cold-Blooded Stars
Herpetology enthusiasts lose their minds in Ranomafana. By day, scan branches for white-lipped bright-eyed frogs gulping silently above streams. At night, guides reveal:
- Satanic leaf-tailed geckos camouflaged as decaying foliage
- Pint-sized chameleon hatchlings clinging to leaves like living dewdrops
- Pinocchio-like short-nosed chameleons waving fluorescent blue snouts
Nature’s Oddities: The Invertebrate Show
Even creep-crawlies become celebrities here. Meet the crimson giraffe-necked weevil – males engage in neck-jousting battles worthy of a medieval tournament. Just remember to tuck pants into boots during rainy season when leeches emerge – these uninvited guests love moist ankles.
Prepare to surrender to Ranomafana’s magic. Between steamy jungles echoing with indri calls and scientists whispering discoveries at ValBio, this park rewrites everything you thought about nature’s imagination. Let your boots get muddy, your binoculars fog up, and your heart race when that first lemur leaps overhead – this is Madagascar at its most alive.
Fianarantsoa: Madagascar’s Highland Crown Jewel
Nestled in Madagascar’s lush highlands, Fianarantsoa—affectionately called “Fianar” by locals—is more than just the island’s third-largest city. Founded in 1830 as the Merina dynasty’s southern capital, this layered town echoes its big sister, Antananarivo, with districts stacked like terraced rice paddies. Arrive in the bustling Basse Ville at 900m, where the energy of commerce fills the air. Climb 300m to the enchanting Haute Ville, a pedestrian-only time capsule of cobblestone alleys and crumbling colonial charm. In between lies the Nouvelle Ville, humming with banks, markets, and the pulse of everyday life.
For travelers, Fianarantsoa is a crossroads. Head south, and arid landscapes unfold; venture north, and you’re deep in highland culture. But the real adventure awaits eastward—on the rickety Fianar–Côte Est railway, dangling over rainforest cliffs toward the Indian Ocean.
Where Knowledge Blooms: A Storied Past
Fianarantsoa’s name whispers its legacy: “Place of Good Learning.” Centuries ago, Merina elites and European missionaries shaped it into an intellectual beacon. Today, six historic churches still grace the old town’s crest, testaments to its spiritual and scholarly roots. After 1895, the French planted their flag here, ruling southern Madagascar from these cool highland breezes.
The Fianar–Côte Est Railway: Adventure on Rails
Madagascar’s legendary “Train of the Rainforest” isn’t for the faint-hearted. Operational since 1936 (barely!), this twice-weekly service from Fianarantsoa to coastal Manakara promises cinematic views—waterfalls, jungle tunnels, and village stops where locals trade snacks through train windows. But beware: schedules are fables. Officially, departures are at 7 a.m. Tuesdays and Saturdays. Reality? Show up, cross your fingers, and pack patience (and snacks).
First-class seats cost 25,000ar plus a 15,000ar reservation—survival stakes for the 170km, 12+ hour odyssey. Bring a flashlight, mosquito spray, and a sense of humor. Breakdowns, sardine-packed cabins, and nocturnal arrivals are rites of passage. Yet, as moonlight filters through rainforest canopies, you’ll grasp why this creaky relic is a traveler’s holy grail.
Haute Ville: Walking Through History
Fianar’s crowning glory is Haute Ville. Park at Ambozontany Cathedral and ascend stone stairways into a living postcard. Ornate balconies lean over alleys, whispering of Merina royalty and French colonial dreams. It’s a kaleidoscope—crumbling brick mansions swallowed by ivy, others meticulously restored. In 2008, the World Monuments Fund declared this hilltop a “most endangered” site, adding urgency to wander its paths.
Circle the summit in 30 minutes, passing Antranobiriky Church (1859) and the plaque-marked Merina royal grounds. Westward, Lac Anosy glimmers—a queen’s replica of Antananarivo’s famed lake. Locals gather here at dusk, tracing shorelines as their ancestors did.
Ambalavao: Gateway to Wild Beauty
Southbound from Fianar, the road plummets into Ambalavao, cradled by the jagged Massif d’Iandrambaky. This highland outpost is a pit stop for Andringitra National Park trekkers, but linger—it’s worth it.
Ambalavao’s soul lies in its Betsileo heritage. Lavishly carved lavarangana verandas frame houses, perfect for your camera. Silk weavers and antaimoro paper artisans keep centuries-old crafts alive. But nature rules here—the Mananatanana River snakes westward, swelling in rains to snap bridges and sever Madagascar in two for weeks.
Silk: Threads of Tradition
Madagascar’s rainforests hide silken marvels—like the fiery comet moth, wings aglow like stained glass. Golden tapia forests (home to fire-resistant Uapaca bojeri trees) shelter another treasure: borocera silkworms. For generations, Betsileo communities harvest cocoons each November, spinning silk into burial shrouds rich with symbolism.
Today, Ambalavao’s workshops weave these threads into scarves and textiles. Touch the fabric—it’s resilience, beauty, and history spun into every strand.
Madagascar’s Liquid Gold: A Silk Story You Won’t Believe
Madagascar’s tapia forests hide a precious secret – the golden threads of wild silkworms that create some of the planet’s most extraordinary textiles. But this natural wonder faces serious threats. As these remarkably fire-resistant forests shrink, local artisans are fighting back through innovative partnerships.
Picture this: communities near Ambositra have joined forces with organizations like Feedback Madagascar and SAGE to plant thousands of tapia saplings. Their mission? Boost silkworm populations while creating sustainable livelihoods. What’s fascinating is that nothing goes to waste – even the protein-rich chrysalises become a popular local snack!
Nature’s Color Palette
Visit any silk workshop and you’ll witness nature’s dye pots bubbling with rainbow hues. Artisans transform turmeric into sunshine yellows, beetroot into deep crimsons, and rice mud into earthy browns. Some prefer letting the spectacular natural bronze tones of wild silk speak for themselves. For budget-conscious buyers, you’ll spot creamy domestic silk too – produced by silkworms munching on mulberry leaves instead of tapia.
The Million-Spider Miracle
Prepare for the wow-factor: Madagascar holds the secret to spider silk cloth. Using an ingenious Victorian technique revived in 2012, craftspeople once harvested silk from golden orb spiders. Imagine the labor of love – teams spent three years collecting silk from over a million spiders just to create two museum-worthy pieces! While not commercially viable, this marvel reminds us what Madagascar’s ecosystems can offer.
Anja Reserve: Where Lemurs Rule
Tucked 11km from Ambalavao, Anja Community Reserve proves local conservation works wonders. This Betsileo-managed sanctuary protects sacred granite peaks, forested boulders, and its superstar residents: ring-tailed lemurs. Thanks to traditional hunting taboos and WWF partnerships, these charismatic primates thrive in their northernmost habitat.
Dawn with the Makis
Here’s an insider tip: arrive at sunrise. Watching lemurs emerge from slumber is pure magic. Picture them sitting yoga-style, arms stretched wide to absorb the morning sun before breakfasting on bark and sap. If you visit in August, peek at adorable twins – Anja’s specialty. Our photographer friends love mid-mornings best, when entire troops scamper to the lake shore for refreshments.
Beyond lemur antics, Anja offers more adventures:
- Spot red-billed teals gliding across the lake
- Marvel at Madagascar harrier-hawks circling overhead
- Challenge yourself with summit hikes up the “Three Brothers” peaks
Ring-Tailed Royalty: Madagascar’s Iconic Maki
No creature embodies Madagascar like the ring-tailed lemur. These cat-voiced acrobats thrive from Morondava’s dry forests to Andohahela’s parks. Unlike tree-bound cousins, makis love ground adventures – playing on rocks, foraging for grubs, even sleeping in caves!
Scent Wars & Baby Boom
Step into their scented world where females reign supreme. Males duel with “stink fights” – waving scent-loaded tails like biological flags. Come mating season, testosterone-fueled “jump fights” decide breeding rights. Survival starts early here: half of newborn lemurs face hungry hawks and snakes. Yet these resilient creatures bounce back, securing their future against all odds.
Antsirabe: Madagascar’s Highland Gem
Trade Tana’s chaos for Antsirabe’s thermal charm. Founded by Norwegian missionaries in 1869, Madagascar’s third-largest city offers surprising tranquility amid its famous rickshaw bustle. Catch your breath here while exploring:
- The country’s second-largest zebu market – where thousands of cattle trade hands
- Wednesday craft markets bursting with artisanal treasures
- Prestigious gem workshops along the RN7 corridor
Positioned midway between Tana and Fianar (170km south/250km north respectively), this mineral-rich town makes an ideal base. Though thermal spas remain closed, luxurious hotels and gourmet restaurants keep visitors pampered. Pro tip: Antsirabe serves as your gateway to Madagascar’s wild western frontiers!
Step into the heart of Madagascar’s highlands where history whispers through bustling markets and ancient traditions. Whether you’re drawn by cultural treasures or hidden gemstones, this land will surprise you at every turn.
From Zoma Market to Artisan Treasures
Don’t let the name fool you – Antananarivo’s legendary Zoma Market isn’t just for Saturdays! This vibrant spectacle unfolds daily across a sprawling purpose-built site on the city’s western edge. For authentic handicrafts, let curiosity guide you through winding alleyways. Gem enthusiasts should make a beeline for the hypnotic vendor stalls facing the Le Trianon hotel, where Madagascar’s mineral riches glitter in the sunlight.
The Living Legends: Vazimba, Merina & Betsileo
Central Madagascar’s mountains cradle stories older than time. The enigmatic Vazimba people first walked these highlands – possibly arriving two millennia ago from East Africa or Borneo’s distant shores. Living lightly as hunter-gatherers before transitioning to farming, their peaceful existence shifted dramatically when the Merina ascended to power. Today, their legacy lives not only in Merina folklore but also through a small ethnic group in southwest Madagascar proudly carrying the Vazimba name.
Enter the Merina – Madagascar’s largest ethnic group whose rice fields paint the highlands emerald green. Hailing from Indonesian archipelago migrations, they unified under visionary monarchs in the 18th century, eventually controlling most of the island. Though French colonizers weakened their empire in 1895, the Merina’s sophisticated class system (from royals called andriana to commoners known as hova) continues shaping social dynamics. Visitor tip: Look for the lingering royal pride in communities descended from nobles.
South of Merina territory, the Betsileo people carve their identity through breathtaking rice terraces and vibrant artistry. Absorbed into the Merina empire during the 1800s, they’ve preserved their unique cultural spirit. Today, their craftsmanship shines in intricate woodcarvings and the soulful notes of traditional instruments like the valiha tube zither. Don’t miss Fianarantsoa – the Betsileo cultural hub where music floats through the hillsides.
Discover Madagascar with Ease: Ready to walk these lands of legends? Explore our essential Madagascar travel guide for seamless journey planning.
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