Picture this: A cluster of volcanic islands born from fire and shaped by North Atlantic waves, where puffins outnumber people and lava fields tell tales of Earth’s raw power. Welcome to Iceland’s Westman Islands – a world of dramatic landscapes and resilient spirit waiting to be discovered.
A Land Forged by Fire and Rebellion
These geological infants at just 12,000 years old have witnessed Iceland’s most dramatic moments. Their very name whispers of ancient rebellion – Viking settlers called their British captives “Westmen,” and when these slaves revolted against Hjörleifur Hróðmarsson, they fled to these very islands.
The archipelago’s quiet existence shattered in 1627 when Algerian pirates stormed Heimaey, leaving death and enslavement in their wake. Yet the islands rose from these ashes, transforming into a thriving fishing hub by the 20th century – until Mother Nature delivered her most shocking chapter.
1973: The Eruption That Changed Everything
On a frigid January night in 1973, Heimaey’s ground split open like a zipper. A 2km volcanic fissure sent Eldfell volcano spewing molten rock across homes and harbor. In a miraculous evacuation, nearly 5,000 islanders escaped by fishing boats within hours as their world burned behind them.
For six fiery months, the earth remade itself. When it finally stopped, Heimaey had grown by two square kilometers and gained an unlikely blessing – the cooled lava actually improved the harbor’s natural protection from storms. Through ash-covered streets and smothered homes, one truth emerged: the Westman spirit proved as unbreakable as volcanic rock.
Your Island Adventure Awaits: Getting to the Westmans
Making your way to these remote gems is part of the adventure. We’ve broken down your transport options to help you navigate like a local.
By Air: For the Intrepid
Small planes from Reykjavík City Airport (Eagle Air) or Landeyjahöfn (Atlantsflug) offer breathtaking aerial views. Be warned: Iceland’s moody skies mean flights often face delays. Perfect for spontaneous travelers with flexible plans.
By Sea: The Island Classic
Hop aboard the Herjólfur ferry from Landeyjahöfn’s modern port – just 15km off Iceland’s famous Ring Road. Pro tip: Book ferry tickets days ahead during summer’s peak. When winter storms rage, services sometimes divert to Þorlákshöfn, turning a quick 40-minute crossing into a 3-hour ocean adventure.
By Bus: The Budget-Friendly Route
Strætó’s #52 bus connects Reykjavík’s Mjódd terminal directly to the ferry port – perfect for car-free explorers. Note: In rough weather when ferries divert, buses stop at Hvolsvöllur instead.
Heimaey: More Than Just an Island
Welcome to Iceland’s most surprising destination. Heimaey (literally “Home Island”) packs more drama into its compact 6km length than many countries manage across their entire landscapes. Here’s why it deserves your undivided attention.
When Nature Puts on a Show
May-September: Puffins arrive by the thousands, whales patrol nearby waters, and wildflowers blanket volcanic slopes. The famous Þjóðhátíð festival transforms the island in August – picture bonfires reaching skyward, fireworks reflecting off the Atlantic, and three days of joyous celebration marking Iceland’s independence. Book accommodation a year ahead for this!
Year-round magic: Even in winter, Heimaey’s volcanic peaks dusted with snow create landscapes you’ll photograph until your hands freeze. Just prepare for Iceland’s wildest weather – winds here have hit 220km/h!
Stórhöfði: Where Birds Rule
Walk the island’s narrow southern isthmus to reach this legendary birdwatching peninsula. From May-August, puffins nest practically at your feet while guillemots and kittiwakes fill the sea cliffs with life.
Heimaey Town: Colorful Charm & Fresh Catches
Wander streets lined with cheerful, puffin-themed signs leading you past brightly painted houses to Iceland’s busiest fishing harbor. Watch crews mend intricate nets and unload the day’s catch – this town lives off the sea and welcomes you to share that connection.
Sæheimar: Iceland’s Seaside Secrets
Don’t miss this charming aquarium-museum combo. Get nose-to-nose with lumpfish (they’re adorably ugly!), marvel at Iceland’s complete bird collection, and if you’re lucky, help caretakers feed orphaned puffin chicks. It’s Iceland’s natural world in microcosm.
Trails of Fire
Lace up for the hike of a lifetime up Eldfell – the volcano that remade the island. The reddish slopes underfoot were molten lava in your parents’ lifetime. At the summit, steam still rises from warm ground as you gaze over the island’s rebirth.
Your Westman Islands Checklist
- Stay: Guesthouses fill fast – book months ahead. Camping offers freedom during summer
- Eat: Fresh-caught cod and charming bakeries will fuel your explorations
- Pack: Waterproof everything – you’re in the wild Atlantic!
- Time: Budget at least 2 days to truly connect with the islands’ magic
The Westman Islands don’t just show you Iceland – they let you feel its beating heart. From volcanic rebirth to coastal community spirit, this archipelago proves that sometimes the smallest places leave the biggest impressions.
Skansinn Fort & Stafkirkjan: Where Viking History Comes Alive
Just east of Heimaey’s harbor, you’ll walk through living history. The modest stone walls of Skansinn Fort tell tales of pirate raids and island resilience – built by medieval English marauders, later repurposed for Iceland’s first (and only) army. Legend whispers of “Gentleman John,” the 16th-century rogue who made off with Heimaey’s church bell!
Across the path stands Stafkirkjan, a breathtaking wooden church echoing Iceland’s Viking-era craftsmanship. Consecrated in 2000 to mark a millennium of Icelandic Christianity, its steep black roof faces hallowed ground: the site where Gizur the White built Iceland’s first Christian church a thousand years earlier.
Kirkjubæjarhraun: Walking Over Buried Streets
South of the harbor, an entire neighborhood sleeps beneath volcanic rubble. The Kirkjubæjarhraun lava flow looms like a frozen tsunami, swallowing homes during Heimaey’s 1973 eruption. Climb the steps from Heimagata to stand atop this alien landscape – sharp rocks twisted into surreal shapes seem too massive to have ever flowed like liquid.
Chilling markers reveal what lies beneath: painted stones outline phantom houses 52 feet below, while engraved plaques honor buried homes. It’s Iceland’s most moving open-air memorial.
Heimaey’s Wild Coastal Hikes: Birds, Bluffs & Ocean Drama
Though the airstrip prevents a full island circuit, Heimaey’s coastal trails deliver rugged beauty. Start west from the golf course on a breezy 6km clifftop walk to Stórhöfði peninsula. Watch for ducks paddling in hidden coves before ascending to seabird paradise.
The panorama from Stórhöfði’s viewing platform stuns: puffin colonies dot sheer cliffs while gannets dive bomb offshore islets. Whale spouts often streak the horizon!
Continue along the wind-whipped east coast where seals ride surging waves. Tide pools glitter in rocky coves, and secret caves beg exploration (time your visit with low tide!). Scramble up scree slopes to Landstakkur peninsula, where puffins nest amidst jaw-dropping sea views.
The final stretch treats hikers to vertiginous cliffs plunging into indigo depths before looping back to town past the airstrip beacon.
Heimaey’s Beloved Puffins: Clownish Seabirds in Peril
With their Technicolor beaks and waddling gait, puffins (Icelandic: lundi) are nature’s comedians. Watch them “land” – more crash than arrival – or witness aerial mugging as gulls steal their fish-stuffed beaks mid-flight.
Until recently, two million puffins nested here annually. Each August, pufflings fledged in a spectacle locals call “the rescue”: confused by town lights, grounded chicks get scooped up by volunteers to be released at sea.
Today, warming seas spell crisis. Sand eel shortages cause mass starvation, with adults abandoning nests. While puffins still nest here (best seen May-August), their numbers plummet yearly. Conservationists race against time – visit these charismatic birds while you still can.
